I've always been jealous of the Z32 300ZX and NA1 NSX keys. If you're not familiar, the 300ZX got a titanium key and the NSX was an alloy called monel. Both are SUPER cool if you get a chance to hold one. Even cooler if you get to pop it in the ignition! Honestly, just the feeling of these in your hands sends a slight tinge of electricity through your fingers.

Bottom line is: I always thought the MKIV got the shaft being assigned the same key that came with the Sienna minivan. So, it's high time a car like the MKIV got the respect it deserved and a key to match it's commitment to excess.

For this design, we took a 3D scan of the Supra rear emblem and massaged it until we were happy. We went through 30+ different revisions, tweaking angles and curves ever so slightly until we were happy with it. The final product, I think you'll agree, is a work of art and embodies the Supra spirit from tip to tip. The sandblasted finish adds a really nice quality unmatched by any other keys I've held.

As for cutting a titanium key, I recommend taking it to a local locksmith that could make quick work of it. The body is *identical* to a 93-98 OEM key, so matching that should be no issue at all.

TIPS FOR CUTTING TITANIUM KEYS

1) Choosing the Right Locksmith

Please don’t take your key to a Walmart, Lowes or Home Depot. Most of them use automatic cutters that cut a key on both sides at once. Please take it to a qualified locksmith.

2) Cool Down Process

The titanium keys are made from Grade2 titanium (the lower the grade the softer the metal). The most commonly used grade is the Grade5 6AL4V titanium which is used for tow hooks, exhaust systems, etc.

The key cutting wheels are made from high speed steel and some of them are titanium coated, since a locksmith is accustomed to the softer brass and aluminum keys the high speed steel cutting wheel can cut them very easily. But here we have two very hard metals and a lot of friction/heat is generated while cutting.

The “key” (pun intended) here is to allow the key to cool down with each single cut each groove. Otherwise the titanium key will melt. Also please inform the locksmith to go easy with very light passes and not apply too much pressure on the lever while cutting. If cutting oil is available it can also help a lot. If they ruin or melt the key their excuses most of the time is the “key isn’t real titanium” (it is). So they must take their time while cutting this key.

3) Choosing the Proper Cutting Equipment

A manual cutter works best because the locksmith can see what is going on and has complete control on the process. Most dealers use an automatic machine that only does one side at a time. They work great if you allow them to cool before cutting the other side, keeping the original key in place and only flipping the blank.

4) Finding the Key Code / Cutting a New Master

It is recommended NOT to copy a worn key. A qualified locksmith can decode a worn out key, but cut it with a key code (and save them some time). The passenger side key cylinder has the key code stamped on it.

Some locksmiths also have a database with the key codes based on the VIN number.

If your key is worn, you should cut a new key from a code and then use THAT to cut your titanium key.

5) Cleaning and Deburring

Even if everything goes perfectly with your locksmith, you may still need to de-burr or even file down left over metal. Take your time and do it right. At this point, the titanium that needs to be cleaned up should be thin enough to do things by hand. Wire wheels, small files and patience are your friend.

6) Using your Key for the First Time

Maintain your locking mechanisms by applying oil to the locks (this is the main reason why the plastic door lock actuator breaks) the first time that you try the keys do not put too much force. It should go smooth verify if it aligns and matches with the previous key.